I’ve made several masks of different types since leaving you with the brief description of one that worked. But I do have a new favorite, very fast to cut and sew, and the best fit yet. If you look at the models of what happens when you sneeze inside a mask you’ll see that the leakage from the sides can be a real issue. This mask does far better–even though I admire the Olson, which can take a coffee filter in its front pocket…lovely idea, but not as good a fit.
I was inspired by this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZBbkn-g-vE and then made up my own template of which I will share a scan.
I really like the material this young professional recommends, the Halyard h600. But let me note that if you wash it, it will lose its waterproof qualities and become no better in its function than any other fabric mask, except that it may fit better, which is after all one of the reasons to try it– it is endurable in warm weather because of its lightness and breathability. You can either put is aside for a minimum of 72 hours after one wearing, or cook it at 165 F for thirty minutes (per University of Florida College of Medicine, Dept of Anesthesiology.) Bleach or other cleansers will degrade the material. In the pursuit of completeness, I also must note here that Lancet had the observation that particles of this virus can persist on fabric for seven to ten days, a truly dismaying figure. I understand this finding is being contested, and if I find out it has been amended, I will later try to get an edit in on this page. Or perhaps one of you will correct this!
The Halyard h600 comes in large sheets, two-layered. Cut out the mask template so that you have the double mask shapes, one blue one white, then cut two strips of the double-layered 24″ Halyard. The strips you’ll split into four pieces by pulling apart the layers. Take 24″ pieces of pure cotton twine , lay one down the center of each strip and sew the twine into the fold, thus creating four flat ties, two for each side of the mask. No need for perfection, just function.
Sew along the top nose line of the mask, stitching the two layers together. Cut a piece of flexible stout wire, (number 5 is good,) and bend the tips in so no cutting edges are where they will poke through your mask. Shape this to fit the curve along the top nose part of the mask and stitch this into place, essentially pocketing it.
This photo shows final placement of the nose wire, but it’s much easier to first sew the two layers together along the top, insert the wire in this orientation, and then pocket it in place by stitching through both layers to trap the wire firmly.
Attach the flat ties to the mask with zigzag stitching for security, giving some attention to the angle at which they attach so that they will pull the mask appropriately against your face without creating rumples.
Now stitch the two side darts, making sure you catch all layers of the Halyard fabric without gaps. As you can see from my photos I have become very fond of the cloth sewing clips which have one huge advantage of leaving no holes in your mask other than the ones the sewing machine must make!
Last, sew the chin angles together. Try it on, molding the nose wire to your nose, and see if you need to re-set any of the ties or resew any gaps. If not, you are done. If you can do a fit test, please do!
Tie the top tie up high, above the ears or across them so that the edge is uncomfortably close to your lower eyelids. Then tie the lower tie snugly behind your head, which should draw the mask down so that you can wear it comfortablt. Mold the nose wire tio fit your nose and you should be good to go.
robinwinter 